DAY 27 June 20, 2009

What a VERY Looong day! Started at the Baton Rouge Farmer's Market-where I purchased two bottles of wine from Amato's Winery and some tomatoes. Wandered around the deserted streets surrounding the capital building. There is a beautiful green space on the east side of the capital area that is peaceful and gorgeous.

Headed up to the Louisiana Prison Museum-thinking it was just outside of Baton Rouge. It is NOT!

I had lunch at the most haunted plantation in the U.S. - the Myrtles in St. Francisville. The name of the restaurant is the Carriage House http://www.myrtlesplantation.com/restaurant/restaurant.html Lunch was okay, but the one thing I didn't think I wanted (the potato salad) was exceptional! I think it was celery seed and grainy brown mustard that brought that dish home. I ordered Chicken and Sausage Gumbo with rice and scoop of potato salad $8 and a piece of cornbread (which I had to ask for three times before it came out and then got charged $2 for). Next time skip the dry cornbread that doesn't show up until you are almost done and don't really want it anymore. I decided against the $8 tour of the plantation.



























I finally made it to Angola - the bloodiest prison in the U.S. - prison museum. I was not impressed with the responses the representative offered to my inquiries. I was even more distressed by the joviality of patrons in this somber location. I came to the conclusion that if people entering this "correctional" facility were not animals when they got here, they certainly were if / when they left.
I found a unique little town with a beautiful winery in Jackson, LA. The Feliciana Winery is beautiful! They also produce some decent wines served by a very sweet little lady. I bought two more bottles of wine - that is four today. I had better get to drinking.
At the ACME Oyster House in Covington, I had the most amazing grilled oysters. They were a little smokey and a little salty from the Parmesan cheese-oh my this is almost heaven! I could have eaten these all night, but I had ordered catfish and fried oysters also-not quite as good as Mulate's, but still very good. I love ACME's hushpuppies (their crabby puppies are even better-probably the best I have ever had).

You may remember my aversion to bridges from day 21. Okay so what possessed me to pay $3 to drive the longest (24 miles) over water (Lake Pontchartrain)?! Anxiety (albeit without basis) for half an hour was not fun.

I finally made it into New Orleans as the light slips completely from the sky. It took me a while to find an inexpensive room, complicated by the fact that it is harder for me to traverse an unknown location in the dark. I got lost several times and was very happy to find the America' Best Inn on the eastern outskirts of town. The room was nice and very clean. The desk attendant was very kind to this very tired traveler. I finished off my bottle of Black Beauty wine from the Kitty inspired Black Mesa Winery in New Mexico-this is a fabulous wine that is more than deserving of the awards it has garnered.

ROUTE: US 61 North>LA 66 West and East>US 61 South>LA 10 East>I 55 South>LA 36 East>LA 25 South>into New Orleans>I 610 East> I 10 East

Lodging: America's Best Inn East of New Orleans

Meals:
Carriage House (**Food *Service)
ACME Oyster House (***Food ***Service)

Attractions: Baton Rouge Farmer's Market, Louisiana Capital, Louisiana Prison Museum, Myrtles Plantation, Feliciana Winery, LONG Bridge over Pontchartrain


$$$: $49 Motel $35 Wine $49 Food $3 Toll $19 Fuel = $155

DAY 26 June 19, 2009

Not much to share. Today's travels consisted of miles and miles of trees lining both sides of the highway to Baton Rouge.

I grabbed Pizza Hut for dinner. The pizza was good, but I did not appreciate having to pull away from the drive thru window and wait another 5 minutes for my order to be prepared because they had failed to manage their pizza inventory.

I checked into the Motel 6 and appreciate the desk clerk's willingness to let me go check their last first floor handicapped unit for the amount of smokiness in a smoking room. That was fine and I appreciate the follow up call to check on my satisfaction. This is one of Motel 6's "refreshed" locations with wood laminate flooring and supposedly newer furnishings. The furnishings were quite old and not clean. While the new flooring should allow them to keep the floors cleaner, this was by far the dirtiest floor on this trip! My feet were filthy coming from the shower just to the bed one time-YUCK! The ice machine had an attitude, as did the locking mechanism on my door. The next morning the pool was closed. Not my best Motel 6 experience.

ROUTE: LA 31 North>US 190 East>I 10 East> I 12 East into Baton Rouge.

Lodging: Motel 6 Baton Rouge-East

Meals: Pizza Hut (***Food *Service)

Attractions: Trees

$$$: $1 Car Wash $18 Fuel $47 Motel $7 Food = $73

DAY 25 June 18, 2009

Did laundry and packed it out this morning after talking to my friend Luciane, who is now living in Louisiana. We made plans to meet in New Orleans this weekend.

I started the morning out at the John Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve in Lafayette. Good thing too. I had planned on driving up to Eunice for the other location, but found out that they were experiencing challenges and were currently closed.

I met two other travelers seeking good food and great brews at the hostel. Interestingly enough, Justin and Megan started in NYC and are headed the opposite direction (to Oregon). We compared notes and they highly recommended the BEST Stop (I-10 exit 97-head north about 1/2 a mile) for cracklins and boudin balls. The fried boudin balls are the bomb! I bought one and then went back to stand in line for three more (just a buck!). They really are that good.

Just a short jaunt to my overnight stay in Breaux Bridge. The Bayou Cabins were cute. I stayed in number 3. When I asked for the key, I was told it was "hangin". Okay, we are both speaking English, but I don't understand what you mean. It was on the hook by the door of the cabin-interesting, never seen that before. The cabin was quaint, clean, and comfortable. The stay comes with an evening sampler platter of their specialties (head cheese, boudin, and cracklins) and homemade rootbeer. I only enjoyed the head cheese (totally unexpected) and the rootbeer.








For dinner I went to Mulate's http://www.mulates.com "the original cajun restaurant". I felt their menu was limited. I decided on the seafood platter with stuffed crab (yum), half green pepper stuffed with seafood (my favorite), fried frog leg (kind of like a cross between chicken and fish-it was okay), fried butterflied shrimp, fried catfish, & fresh fried oysters. It was served with french fries.

ROUTE: US 90 West>exit 97>US 90 East

Lodging: Bayou Cabins

Meals:
BEST Stop (****Food **Service)
Bayou Boudin & Cracklin (*Food ****Service)
Mulate's (***Food **Service)

Attractions: John Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve & Breaux Bridge Visitor Center

$$$: $66 Cabin $ 2 Laundry $34 Food = $102

DAY 24 June 17, 2009

Still hanging out at the hostel.

Went to Johnson's (1111 St John-Lafayette) for lunch. I ordered a pulled pork baked potato. I think this was the best pulled pork I have ever eaten, unfortunately it topped an overcooked (day old?) potato. Definitely worth a stop!

Had a combo sandwich at
the Cedar Deli (across the street from the hostel) and got all the flavor I was seeking yesterday at Zeus'. I also purchase labne which is like Greek yogurt cheese, but is a Lebanese kefir cheese.

I had some wonderful red beans and rice in the Blue Moon Saloon tonight. Some of the best I have ever had! They serve red beans and rice on Wednesday evenings for donations-honestly great food and great people. Sit down and enjoy the jam session with an Abita beer for the perfect night! An absolute MUST DO!

ROUTE: N/A

Lodging: Blue Moon Saloon & Hostel

Meals:
Johnson's (***Food ****Service)
Cedar Deli (***Food ****Service)
Blue Moon Saloon (****Food)

$$$: $19 Hostel $21 Food = $40

DAY 23 June 16, 2009

I decided to stay put for a few days. The hostel is clean and the staff is wonderful!

I ate lunch (a gyro) at Zeus Express 2733 West Pinhook Road http://www.zeuscafe.com/togo.html I ordered a regular gyro. It was unremarkable in that the seasoning was very light, if not completely absent.

I also tried Borden Ice Cream (historic place on Johnston). I ordered a butter pecan waffle cone. While this was very good, I still think Blue Bell is better.

ROUTE: N/A

Lodging: Blue Moon Saloon & Hostel

Meals:
Zeus Express (**Food *Service)
Borden Ice Cream (***Food ****Service)

Attractions: LSU

$$$: $19 Hostel $10 Postage $11 Food = $40

DAY 22 June15, 2009

The night was hot (record heat in Texas) even with the 20mph winds. At 5 am, the car said the temp was 82 degrees. It didn't even get that hot at home today.

The road into Port Arthur is still closed due to the storm damage. I could see the crews clearing debris - this is almost 10 months AFTER the hurricane. I took the detour into Port Arthur and washed the sea spray from the car. Hit the Louisiana border perfectly timed for the opening of the visitor center, only to find that it was closed.

Took LA 14 through Cajun Country - Acadiana. I found a lot of unimproved land and quite a bit of road kill. There is a very nice visitor center in Abbeville. After a few calls, I decided to high tail it into the Blue Moon Saloon & Hostel in Lafayette. They were closing in 40 minutes for several hours, so I hit the road post haste.

Ended up eating at Olive Garden after finding two of the places I had chosen to eat at closed until dinner. Lunch was zuppa toscana "a spicy sausage, russet potatoes and cavolo greens in a creamy broth" and braised beef and tortelloni-described as "tender sliced short ribs and portobello mushrooms tossed with asiago-filled tortelloni in a basil-marsala sauce". The service was pathetic, but the food was standard predictable Olive Garden. Sometimes you just need something familiar.

I took a nice air conditioned nap and read the rest of the evening. I really liked the hostel. It is everything I expect in a hostel (clean, nice staff, and other travelers) and more. I have decided to settle in for a few days.

ROUTE: TX 87 North>TX 73 North>US 90/I 10 East>LA 14 East>US 167 North

Lodging: Blue Moon Saloon & Hostel in Lafayette, LA

Meals: Olive Garden Lafayette, LA (***Food *Service)

Attractions: Acadiana

$$$: $3 Car Wash $18 Fuel $10 Post $8 Laundry Supplies $17 Meals $19 Hostel = $75

DAY 21 June 14, 2009

Went to check out Independence Park in Gonzales this morning. Campsites are $20, but I didn't see restrooms much less showers. The park itself is nice, if dated. On my way out, I noticed a lot of locals on the southwest side of the bridge. Probably could have parked overnight there.





I sure wish it were Monday! The brewery in Shiner is closed on Sunday, so I will miss seeing the birthplace of one of my favorite brews.











I grabbed a soda in Halletsville and cruised the town square. On to my namesake. Sheridan, Texas is not as small as I had supposed. It actually has quite the nice little water park and RV park, but nowhere else to stay or even really eat.

The other little towns were unremarkable, except for Nada. Funny name for a town. makes you wonder if they new what it means, because there really is nothing there.

I stopped in Danevang to checkout their museum, but found the $4 suggested contribution a little steep for something I was only mildly interested in.

Grabbed another soda in Bay City. The little park west of town is very nice, but doesn't allow overnight parking.

I arrived in Freeport after the first of quite a few very tall bridges - those who know me know that I absolutely despise the mere thought of automobiles and water interacting (boat ramps, stream crossings, high water, bridges over water...). So the bridges were NOT my favorite part of the trip.

Checked out Quintana Beach, but Surfside was a little nicer (with toilets, visitor center, and boardwalk). Crossed the toll bridge to Galveston Island ($2). I still can't believe the changes from the hurricane last year and the clean up/rebuilding. I was very surprised at how dirty the beaches were. I remember them being much cleaner when I was younger.

I had planned on Gaido's, but the place was packed with no parking. I drove on down to East Beach. Then I joined the line for the ferry to the Bolivar Peninsula.



The Bolivar seems to have taken a direct hit from the storm, or is at least behind in their recovery. Even though there were piles of debris on the sides of the road, the beaches were clean-a vast improvement over Galveston. I liked it so much that I decided to spend the night on the beach (legal in Texas I am told).

ROUTE: US 90A East>TX 71 South>TX 35 South>TX 36 East>TX 288 East>TX 332 East>FM 3005 North>TX 87 North

Lodging: Camped on the beach

Meals: Motel breakfast and a couple of sodas-don't do this again!

Attractions: Independence Park, Shiner, Sheridan, Danevang Museum, Quintana Beach, Surfside, East Beach, and Galveston Ferry

$$$: $2 Food $16 Fuel $2 Toll = $20